This album deals with a technique for whipping a shaft for purposes of repair or reinforcement. In the example shown I am whipping the bottom of a shaft, where it joins the head, because I felt that this shaft was in need of reinforcement. The same technique can be used for repairing actual splits in shafts - in that case, in addition to the whipping, at the same time as much epoxy as possible would be introduced into the split itself, by twisting or flexing the shaft to spread the split and then pushing in epoxy. As always, see the individual pictures and their captions if you want all the details, or skip if you don't want details. Comments and questions are welcome.
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This is the bottom of the shaft on a mashie iron I have been playing. I thought that it didn't look too sound, and was in need of reinforcing.
Before going any further, I get ready tools I will need - a whipping puller and a small pair of long-nosed pliers. Also scissors.
I mix up some epoxy (Brampton Pro-Fix 20/20 is what I am currently using). Only a little is required - for this 2" whipping, I mix 1" of each part of the epoxy.
I mix the two parts of the epoxy with a stick. I use the wooden chopsticks that come included with sushi etc.
I use the stick to smear a thin coat of epoxy as evenly as possible onto the section to be whipped. If repairing a split, the whipped section must extend above and below the split, and so can be quite long.
I use a simple jig to hold one end of the club while I whip it - in this case, just a pair of adjustable pliers stuck into the vice.
I start a whipping, using thick, heavy-duty whipping thread, some way above the epoxied section.
Then I slide the loop down to near the start of the epoxy and tighten it.
Now I start to whip down the shaft, pulling the thread from the spool mounted on a stick.
I keep whipping, over the top of the epoxy.
As I go along epoxy will get pushed ahead, and may drip. If there is too much, excess can be wiped off gently with a paper towel. Note that I am working over a paper towel, so I don't need to bother about the odd drip.
Here I have gone much of the way down, completely covering the initial end of the thread.
When I am about 1/4" from the end, I whip in the whipping puller.
I whip to the end, over the puller, and then cut off the thread.
The cut end of the whipping thread is passed through the puller (using the long-nosed pliers).
Now I pull on the knotted end of the puller with the pliers...
...and draw through the end of the thread. This requires more force than with a regular whipping.
The end is pulled through, and then cut off.
Now I spread the epoxy that has come through the whipping evenly over the entire length, using a chopstick.
Finally excess epoxy is wiped off with a paper towel.
This will now be left to cure. It will set enough to touch after 24 hours, but it is best to wait several days, a week to be on the safe side, before playing the club.
Ken Leedham, GHSC. If you have questions or comments, please email firstname.lastname@example.org.