Golf Historical Society of Canada

14. Repair/Reinforcement Whipping

Image #1: Shaft Bottom

14. Repair/Reinforcement Whipping (21 Images)

By: Ken Leedham, GHSC Member

This album deals with a technique for whipping a shaft for purposes of repair or reinforcement. In the example shown, I am whipping the bottom of a shaft, where it joins the head, because I felt that this shaft was in need of reinforcement.

The same technique can be used for repairing actual splits in shafts – in that case, in addition to the whipping, at the same time as much epoxy as possible would be introduced into the split itself, by twisting or flexing the shaft to spread the split and then pushing in epoxy.



The 21 thumbnail images below read left-to-right across each line, and then down to the next line. Mouse over an individual thumbnail image to see the title. Click on an individual thumbnail image to see a larger image.

Image #1: Shaft Bottom  This is the bottom of the shaft on a mashie iron I have been playing. I thought that it didn’t look too sound, and was in need of reinforcing.

Image #2: Tools – Before going any further, I get ready tools I will need – a whipping puller and a small pair of long-nosed pliers. Also scissors.

Image #3: Mix Epoxy – I mix up some epoxy (Brampton Pro-Fix 20/20 is what I am currently using). Only a little is required – for this 2″ whipping, I mix 1″ of each part of the epoxy.

Image #4: Use Stick – I mix the two parts of the epoxy with a stick. I use the wooden chopsticks that come included with sushi etc.

Image #5: Apply Epoxy – I use the stick to smear a thin coat of epoxy as evenly as possible onto the section to be whipped. If repairing a split, the whipped section must extend above and below the split, and so can be quite long.

Image #6: Use Jig – I use a simple jig to hold one end of the club while I whip it – in this case, just a pair of adjustable pliers stuck into the vice.

Image #7: Start Whipping – I start a whipping, using thick, heavy-duty whipping thread, some way above the epoxied section.

Image #8: Slide Loop – Then I slide the loop down to near the start of the epoxy and tighten it.

Image #9: Whip Shaft – Now I start to whip down the shaft, pulling the thread from the spool mounted on a stick.

Image #10: Over Epoxy – I keep whipping, over the top of the epoxy.

Image #11: Epoxy Drip – As I go along, epoxy will get pushed ahead, and may drip. If there is too much, excess can be wiped off gently with a paper towel. Note that I am working over a paper towel, so I don’t need to bother about the odd drip.

Image #12: Way Down – Here I have gone much of the way down, completely covering the initial end of the thread.

Image #13: Whip Puller – When I am about 1/4″ from the end, I whip in the whipping puller.

Image #14: Whip to End – I whip to the end, over the puller, and then cut off the thread.

Image #15: Through Puller – The cut end of the whipping thread is passed through the puller (using the long-nosed pliers).

Image #16: Pull on Puller – Now I pull on the knotted end of the puller with the pliers …

Image #17: Apply Force – … and draw through the end of the thread. This requires more force than with a regular whipping.

Image #18: End Cut Off – The end is pulled through, and then cut off.

Image #19: Spread Epoxy – Now I spread the epoxy that has come through the whipping evenly over the entire length, using a chopstick.

Image #20: Wipe Excess – Finally excess epoxy is wiped off with a paper towel.

Image #21: Left to Cure – This will now be left to cure. It will set enough to touch after 24 hours, but it is best to wait several days, a week to be on the safe side, before playing the club.

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