1. Reset Heads of Hickory Irons, Part 1 (25 Images)

By: Ken Leedham, GHSC Member

I do not claim to be an ‘expert’ in this area. All I can claim to be is experienced – I’ve done many of these iron head resets over the years. I generally do a whole bunch each spring spring. This post documents how I do it. 

See Part 2 for the balance of the process.

The 25 thumbnail images below read left-to-right across each line, and then down to the next line. Mouse over an individual thumbnail image to see the title. Click on an individual thumbnail image to see a larger image.

Image #1: The Pin – Often the pin will be easily seen. If it isn’t, rubbing with some emery paper will generally show it up. Usually pins go front to back, but it you can’t find a pin on the front, try the diagonal, as this sometimes happens. Once found, I mark the pin with a Sharpie.

Image #2: Pin Extraction – I start the extraction of the pin by using a lead sheet on a small anvil. I use a pointed punch to start the pin. On the right in this picture are a bunch of previously extracted pins.

Image #3: Lead Sheet – The lead sheet allows you to put the head right on the anvil and get a good hit, whilst still allowing the pin to start coming out the lower side.

Image #4: Pointed Punch – Here the pointed punch goes on the marked pin, with the lead sheet underneath, ready to be hit with a full-size hammer (see hammer in previous pictures).

Image #5: Movement of Pin – If you look carefully here, you will see that the pin has started to move down, and now there is absolutely no mistaking where it is.

Image #6: Flat-headed Punch – Once the pin has started to move, I switch from the pointed punch to a flat-headed 1/8″ punch, move the pin over the edge of the anvil, and punch it the rest of the way out.

Image #7: Pin Coming Out – Here you can see the pin part-way out.

Image #8: Pin is Out – Once the pin is out, before I remove the punch, I mark the position of the shaft and head.

Image #9: Shaft Removal – Usually, once the pin is out, a slight twist and pull will allow the shaft to be easily removed from the head.

Image #10: If Shaft is Stuck – If, for some reason, the shaft will not come out after the pin is removed (could be because the head was attached with modern epoxy), then I put a leather gauntlet on my left hand, grasp the head, and play the hosel over a heat-gun on medium setting, gently twisting until the shaft comes out.

Image #11: Cleaning the Hosel – I clean rust and debris from the inside of the hosel with some emery paper on a stick.

Image #12: The Cone – And gently clean and sand the cone.

Image #13: Wooden Pins – For wooden pins, I generally use some 1/8″ sandalwood sticks I obtained for watch-making. Regular 1/8″ dowel can be used, but it tends to be rather under-size.

Image #14: Pencil Sharpener – I make an end on the wooden pin with a pencil-sharpener.

Image #15: Cutting the Pin – Then cut the wooden pin to a bit less than 1″ in length with a sharp clip with pliers.

Image #16: Fitting the Pin – If the pin-hole is the standard 1/8″ size, the wooden pin should fit into it readily but tightly. If the wooden pin won’t go through after the hole is cleaned, make the wooden pin a tiny bit smaller by sanding.

Image #17: Cleaning the Hole – It’s a good idea to clean out the hole with an 1/8″ drill bit. Make sure the head and shaft are properly aligned when doing this.Of course, this is assuming that the pin was a standard 1/8″ size, as most are.

Image #18: Shaft Epoxy – I currently favour Brampton Pro-Fix 20/20 shafting epoxy. This has a good working consistency after being mixed, and cures basically in about 24 hours. I leave clubs for another week of curing before playing them.

Image #19: Mixing Epoxy – I squeeze equal parts of Part A and Part B onto the top of an old coffee can, and mix with a wooden chopstick. A find about 2 x 2″ runs of each part make enough epoxy for one club. In this picture there are 6 x 2″ runs of each, enough for three clubs (the most I ever do at one time).

Image #20 Placing Epoxy – I use the chopstick to put a good quantity of epoxy inside the hosel, smeared all over the walls.

Image #21: Working the Epoxy – I work the epoxy well into the hosel. Then I put the head aside, propped upright.

Image #22: Epoxy on Cone – Then I smear epoxy all over the cone, leaving some extra thickness toward the point.

Image #23: Refitting the Cone – I push the cone up into the hosel, using my alignment mark, squeezing out excess epoxy, and wiping it off with paper towel.

Image #24: Pushing in the Pin – Then I push the previously prepared wooden pin through the hole, and again wipe off with paper towel.

Image #25: Completion, Part 1– I prop the club with the head uppermost (so the epoxy will settle and cure between the cone and the hosel), and leave it for 24 hours to cure. I will deal with the process of riveting the head in Part 2, since this always happens on another day anyway. I clean up with mineral spirits in a spray bottle (though the epoxy instructions actually say to use alcohol). I used to wear rubber gloves, by I found they interfered with dexterity too much.